Lyndsey Beaulieu was born and raised in New Orleans but moved away to attend the University of Virginia. After college she lived in Los Angeles where she became part of the HBO family as an assistant at the HBO offices, then as a Writers' Assistant on ‘Big Love.’ She has been with ‘Treme’ since the pilot and currently works as the Writers' Office Coordinator.

 

Entries in recipes (13)

Tuesday
Dec312013

Goodbye With a Side of Calas

By Lolis Eric Elie

We could go on telling stories about New Orleans and its culture, our characters and their foibles, for years to come. But you know what they say about all good things… 

In New Orleans, we are rather famous for our funeral tradition of leaving the body behind in the graveyard while the living dance their way back, proof that life goes on, even after death. Think of this then, as a jazz funeral. A chance to remember Davis McAlary and his series of second chances at WWOZ. A chance to remember Antoine Batiste and his difficulties finding cab fare. Think of Janette Desautel and her struggles to get the food and business parts of her restaurant in sync. Of Toni Bernette, her noble causes and insatiable will to fight the good fight. Of Big Chief Lambreaux, the beauty of his suits and the iron of his will. And even ol’ Creighton Bernette who, before exiting too soon, left us with colorful rants about this insane world and the inmates in charge of it. 

Pull those memories out and dance them around the room, all the while hearing Delmond Lambreaux’s trumpet or Annie T’s violin or Sonny’s guitar playing just for you. 

One of the things we tried to do with ‘Treme’ was celebrate some of the kings and queens of New Orleans rhythm and blues, musicians whose contributions have too often been forgotten. Much like those musicians, there’s a traditional New Orleans dish that almost fell into obscurity: The calas, a rice fritter traditionally sold on the streets by black women, enslaved and free, for generations. As street vendors gave way to restaurants, the calas died away. 

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Saturday
Dec282013

Oatmeal and Fresh Berry Parfaits

By Lolis Eric Elie

I can hear the argument now. “New Orleans food is all fried and fattening. I want something healthy.” 

I won’t try to argue the point, except to say the reputation of Creole cuisine suffers from the same ailments as other regional American cuisines. Enthusiastic cooks and amateur chefs tend to exaggerate the dishes, adding as much meat, hot sauce and fat as possible to make them “authentic.” They lose sight of the fact that, in the days when these dishes were being developed, meat was a lot more expensive and rare than it is today. Another ham hock does not a better pot of beans make.

I don’t expect everyone to agree with me on that point, so I’ll compromise. I’ll give you a recipe from ‘Treme: Stories and Recipes from the Heart of New Orleans’ that, while not exactly Creole, is something you might find on a Sunday brunch menu in New Orleans. In fact, a version of it once appeared on the menu of the Palace Cafe.  

Ladies and gentlemen, may I present to you, Oatmeal Parfait. 

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Saturday
Dec212013

Chef Jackie’s Paper-Skin Chicken

By Lolis Eric Elie


One of Janette Desautel’s greatest culinary triumphs was the fried chicken she made at Lucky Peach for family meal. It was a hit on screen, but unfortunately for the viewer and the cookbook writer, no recipe was written down. In order to recreate the recipe for ‘Treme: Stories and Recipes from the Heart of New Orleans,’ I turned to my friend Jackie Blanchard to fill in the blanks.

Chef Jackie is the former Executive Sous Chef at John Besh’s Restaurant August. Her fried chicken has wowed audiences on the book circuit and even inspired one of my favorite photos in the book. Recently, she shed light on her culinary background, as well as her plans for the future.

 

When did you know you wanted to be a chef? 

I don't know if there was ever an exact moment when I “knew." Rather, I feel I've been evolving into a chef my whole life. I remember my first burn. I was cooking pancakes with my Pawpaw in a tin cooking shed in his backyard. I insisted on flipping them (over these old gas burners) and my tiny arm got too close. I was 3 or 4 years old, but I remember thinking the scar was cool. 

I'd come home from school in kindergarten and glue myself to Julia Child, Graham Kerr or ‘Great Chefs of the World.’ I come from the thick of Cajun south Louisiana. Everyone in Assumption Parish can cook, so I had access to great influences from the start. Cooking is what I’ve always done.

How did you train to become a chef?

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